Rarely in the hustle and bustle of today's busy world of travel will you find the sincerity of welcome that I found during my first visit to Taiwan.

I went there expecting a nation of commerce and progress and found instead a place of well-preserved Chinese culture and genuine friendliness.

It is not unusual for the locals to greet you with English: "Hello, which country are you from?" They follow this up with a heart-felt: "Welcome to our country". On some occasions small sweets were offered, as they showed their delight that someone from Australia was visiting them.

And there is no need to worry if your knowledge of Chinese dialects is not too strong, English is widely spoken, particularly around tourism, commerce and hospitality. Our group had the services of very professional guides and drivers, who only increased the enjoyment of discovering another culture.

Several simple words that you will use frequently are; Ni-hoa (pronounced nee how) which means "hello"; Ni-hoa-ma for "How are you?", Wo-han hao for "I'm fine" and Sheih-sheih (shey-shey) to say "Thank you".

The island of Taiwan is situated in the Pacific Ocean and almost bisected by the Tropic of Capricorn, to the north of Hong Kong and only 160km from China's Fujian Province.

For centuries we were more familiar with the name Formosa, which was derived from the 16th century Portuguese sailors who named it "Ilea Formosa" - Beautiful Island.

In 1949 the Nationalist Government moved from China to establish Taiwan, and begun a rigorous campaign of reconstruction (after WWII and the finish of the Japanese occupation). The decades that followed saw the country develop into an economic power in Asia-Pacific. Heavy industry developed in the south, while the north became a major manufacturer of computers and associated computer software, internet technology and hi-tech products.

Once their economy had stablised, the country realised that the abundance of natural and beautiful scenery and the colourful co-existence with the original traditional tribes or aborigine’s would be a substantial attraction to the tourist dollar.

The aboriginals have been defined to nine tribes, totaling about 390,000 people. Scientists have not been able to clearly define how long they have lived on the island or where they came from. They may have come from the Malay peninsula/Indonesian archipelago, Mongolia or Polynesia and have been there at least 10,000 years. Most speculation in on a mixture of the three areas, but after watching their colourful cultural shows of singing and dancing, they struck me as being more Polynesian.

Taipei, the capital city, offers many ancient and modern attractions. The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall was built following the death of the nation's leader and founder on April 5, 1975. Funds were provided by overseas donations and by the government for the building, as a way of eternally cherishing his memory. The memorial covers an area of 250,000sqm.

Entering through the 30m high Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness leads to the Boulevard of Homage, which is edged by splendid flower beds and then on to the stairs leading up to the 70m high Memorial Hall itself.

Other "must see"' places around Taipei include the Lukang Long-Shan Temple, built in the Ming Dynasty (around 1653) which was the first Buddhist temple in Taiwan, the Matyrs' Shrine, the National Palace Museum, night markets and the Yangmingshan National Park. It is also well worth taking a ride on the MRT, an exciting rapid transport people mover (train).

Almost 70% of the island is mountainous and where nature rules, the breathtaking snow-capped lofty peaks, plunging gorges, mountain lakes, lush valleys and forests and the natural spa areas were highlights of my trip

The pearl of the orient is an oft-used phrase and the pearl of Taiwan is Taroko National Park, sprawled over. 92,000ha of the northern section of the Central Mountain Range. The sensational beauty of the Taroko Gorge is fully realised when you stand next to the Liwu River and gaze with open-mouthed wonder to the mountain peaks more than 3,950m above.

The area is also unique for its stands of marble that can be hundreds of metres high, They are a natural phenomenon seldom found anywhere else in the world. Mammals to keep an eye out for include black bear, leopard cat and the Formosan macaque (rock monkey).

Bush walking and mountain climbing are popular, but because of the ruggedness of the area it is not for the complete novice.

The Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area is located almost in the centre of the island and within its 90sq km boundary are countless scenic spots of wonder. The pristine freshness has attracted many honeymooners to the lake. The northern half is shaped like the sun, while the southern half is more like a crescent moon.

Local sightseeing must include the Hsuantsang Temple, in respect of the Holy Monk of the Tang Dynasty and the Tszen Pagoda, a nine storey 46m high tower on top of the 954m Mt Shapalan. Chaing Kai-shek built it in 1971 in appreciation of his mother. The views over Sun Moon Lake are worth the 200 step climb.

The Lantern Festival

Lanterns are handmade into every conceivable shape and form, with awards for creativity. Activities take part all over the country. In Yanshuei they fire rockets, while in Pingshi the rising of "Heavenly Lanterns" (miniature hot-air balloons) fill the sky with colour and light.

On the west coast, to the north of the industrial city of Koahsiung is the historic and cultural city of Tainan, the ancient capital of Taiwan. In 1665 the first site for Confucian studies on the island was established, now respected as the Confucian Temple. It comprises 15 structures and impressive ceremonies are held for the birthday of Confucius on September 28 each year.

By the way, Confucius said: "If you enjoy what you do, you'll never work a day in your life." I think he was describing travel writing!

Further north is the 17th century seaport town of Lukang. It is fascinating to walk the ancient streets and lanes with the old narrow-fronted buildings, most restored to ornate beauty.

Lukang is also famous for its Lungshan Temple and for its artisans. There are more recipients of the "Living Heritage Awards" here than anywhere else in Taiwan.

Don't miss the Wu Tun-hou Lantern Shop. The old master and his collection of gorgeous lanterns are very impressive. Also visit the Wen-neng Tin Shop, where Chen Wan-neng practices his craft of creating art that is renowned around the world. Both are "Living Heritage Award" winners and Wu Tun-hou is considered a "National Treasure".

Like all Asian cities, the streets are crowded. There are countless people, most of them rushing along with a set purpose. To us the road systems in Taipei seem to be a giant puzzle, crossovers, flyovers, underpasses, bridges and even some straight sections. They present a chaotic scene to the uninitiated, yet the local motor cycle riders and drivers all seem to follow the rule of no rule and proceed with seemingly "'no worries".

Walking both day and night is considered safe, although be on full alert when crossing roads, even when using the green light. I was assured that the crime rate is low and there is very little street crime, in particular towards visitors.

*Michael Osborne travelled as a guest of Air China and Taiwan Tourism.

Fact File

Currency is the New Taiwan Dollar (NT$). Foreign currency can be exchanged at most banks, hotels and money exchanges. Most credit cards are acceptable and Travelers Cheques used at the larger hotels. Business hours, Mon-Fri 9am -5.30pm. Banks Mon-Fri 8.30am - 3.30pm. Shops 7-days 10am - 5pm. Electricity is 110 volt, 60cycle AC. Tap water should be avoided. Tipping is standard for porters US$2.00. A 10% service charge and 5% VAT are automatically added to room rates and meals. Language Mandarin, Japanese and English. Religion Buddhism, Taoism, Protestant, Catholic and Moslem. Australian Passport holders receive 14 days visa fee entry.

Taiwan Tourism suite 1904, MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Place Sydney. Telephone: 02 9231 6942. Toll free: 1800 Taiwan (824926). Web: http://www.taiwantourism.org

China Airlines and Qantas (EVA Air) operate multiple weekly direct flights Sydney to Taipei. Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific offer flights via Singapore and Hong Kong.